CARE INSTRUCTIONS   I   STAIN REMOVAL   I   CARE SYMBOLS


 Important - Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment's label.

Adhesive Tape, Glue:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Rub ice on the area and carefully scrape off what you can with the dull side of a butter knife or a spoon.

  • Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover. Wait a couple of minutes for the product to penetrate.

  • Rub with heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder immediately.

  • For difficult stains, apply dry-cleaning fluid to the back of stain over absorbent paper towels. Let dry, rinse, and proceed per above. Read and carefully follow the instructions on the product label regarding usage and handling


Alcoholic Drinks, Wine:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.  

  • Launder with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
     

  • Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product.
     

  • To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric. always check for colorfastness first.
     

  • If all the sugars are not removed a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar is caramelized.


 Fruits and Fruit Juices:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Launder with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
     

  • Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product.
     

  • To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric.
     

  • If all the sugars are not removed a brown stain will appear when the fabric is heated in the dryer or is ironed, as the sugar is caramelized.


Asphalt, Tar:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Rub the area with ice and carefully scrape with the dull edge of a butter knife.
     

  • Saturate the area with an aersol pretreatment laundry stain remover, wait a few minutes to allow it to penetrate, then rub with a heavy duty liquid laundry detergent and launder immediately.
     

  • If the color stain remains, launder in chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or in all-fabric bleach. Always check for color fastness first.
     

  • For extra heavy stains, apply dry-cleaning fluid to the back of the stain over absorbent paper towels. Let it dry. Then, rinse and proceed as above. Read the product label and proceed carefully when using dry cleaning fluid.


 Baby Stains: (Food, Formula)

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Scrape off whatever you can.
     

  • Fresh protein stains can often be removed by just soaking and agitating in cold water before washing. If hot water is used first, it can cook the protein, causing coagulation between the fibers in the yarns of the fabric, making the stain more difficult to remove.
     

  • Soak in cold water using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.
     

  • Launder in warm (not hot) water, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash. (Never put a stained fabric in a dryer. The heat from the dryer can set the stain.)
     

  • If color stain remains, launder using chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or with all fabric bleach. However, if bleach is used, rewash to be sure all bleach has been removed because baby's skin is sensitive.
     

  • According to the Old Farmer's Almanac, adding one cup of white vinegar to each laundry load during the rinse cycle breaks down uric acid and soapy residue, leaving baby clothes and diapers soft and fresh. But, be sure you use WHITE vinegar.


Blood:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Flush cold water through the stain and scrape off crusted material.
     

  • Soak for 15 minutes in a mixture of 1 quart of lukewarm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid hand dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia. Use cool/lukewarm water. Heat can permanently set protein stains. Rub gently from the back to loosen stain.
     

  • Soak another 15 minutes in above mixture. Rinse. Soak in enzyme product for at least 30 minutes. Soaked aged stains for several hours. Launder.
     

  • If the blood stain is not completely removed by this process, wet the stain with hydrogen peroxide and a few drops of ammonia. Caution: Do not leave this mixture longer than 15 minutes. Rinse with cool water.
     

  • If blood stain has dried, pre-treat with pre-wash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, or a paste of granular laundry product and water. Launder using bleach safe for fabric.


Butter, Cooking Oils/Fats, Margarine, Mayonnaise, Vegetable Oil:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Treat light stains with a pretreatment spray stain remover and wait a couple minutes for it to penetrate. Rub with a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder
     

  • If color stain remains, launder with chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or use an all-fabric bleach. Always test for colorfastness before using bleach.
     

  • Place heavy stains face down on clean paper towels. Apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. (Carefully read and follow instructions on the product package.) Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.


Candle Wax:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Harden wax by rubbing with ice. Remove surface wax by carefully scraping with the dull edge of a butter knife.
     

  • Sandwich the wax stain between folded paper towels and press with a warm (not hot) iron. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to prevent transferring the stain. Continue as long as wax is being removed.
     

  • Place stain face down on clean paper towels. Sponge remaining stain with a prewash stain remover or dry-cleaning fluid; blot with paper towels. Let dry, then launder. Note: If any color remains, relaunder with a bleach that is safe for the fabric.


Chap stick:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Saturate the areas with a pretreatment aerosol stain remover.
     

  • Wait several minutes for product to penetrate. Rub with heavy duty liquid detergent. Launder immediately.
     

  • If color stain remains, launder in chlorine bleach, if safe for the fabric, or in all fabric bleach. When using bleach always check an inside seam for colorfastness.


Chocolate:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Treat the stain with a pre-wash spray or pre-treat with a product containing enzymes. Rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder.

  • If stain remains, re-launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric.


Coffee, Tea:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Saturate the stain with a pretreatment stain remover.
     

  • Rub the stain with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.
     

  • Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
     

  • If stain remains launder with bleach safe for the fabric.


Crayons:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Scrape excess crayon with the dull edge of a butter knife.
     

  • Wash in hot, soft water with soap, such as Ivory and 1/2 cup baking soda for 10 minutes.
     

  • If the stain remains, work soap paste into the stain. Wash 5 minutes. Rinse.
     

  • To remove any remaining color use bleach or color remover as safe for the fabric. Always test for color fastness.


 Dairy Products:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Fresh stains should be soaked and agitated in cold water before washing. If stain is dried, scrape or bush off any crusted matter.
     

  • Soak for up to several hours in cold water with a detergent or an enzyme presoak.
     

  • Launder in warm (not hot) water. If stain remains soak an additional 30 minutes and rewash.
     

  • If color stain remains, launder with a bleach safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first.


Dye Stains, Dye Transfer:
 
Dye stains (incl. mustard, etc.) can be very difficult to remove. Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of all-fabric powered bleach. Check the garment care label and check for color fastness first. And, be aware that during soaking all colors may be lightened.
     

  • If the stain remains and the garment is colorfast, soak the entire garment in a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water. Again, test for colorfastness first.
     

  • Caution: Chlorine bleach may change the color of the garment or cause irreversible damage. Therefore, it is important to check for color fastness before using. If the stain does not come out within 15 minutes of bleaching, it cannot be removed by bleaching, and any further exposure to bleach will weaken the fabric.
     

  • Note: To check for color fastness to liquid chlorine bleach, mix 1 tablespoon of bleach with 1/4 cup of water. Use an eyedropper to put a drop of this solution on a hidden seam or pocket edge inside the garment. Let it stand two minute, then blot dry. If there is no color change it is safe to use the product. Powered bleaches have directions for doing colorfastness tests.
     

  • There are also a number of dye removers/strippers, such as one from Rit, which are available in drug and grocery stores. However, color removers will also take out fabric colors as well as the stain.


Gravy:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Saturate the stain with a prewash spray. Wait several minutes for product to penetrate. For tough stains rub with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Launder.
     

  • If stain remains, launder with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first


Grease, Hand Lotion, Make-Up (oil based), Ointment/Salve & Motor Oil:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Saturate light stains with a pretreatment spray stain remover and wait several minutes for it to penetrate. Rub with a heavy-duty liquid laundry detergent. Launder
     

  • If color stain remains, launder with chlorine bleach if safe for the fabric, or use an all-fabric bleach. Always test for colorfastness before using bleach.
     

  • Place heavy stains face down on folded paper towels. Apply dry cleaning fluid to the back of stain. Replace towels frequently. (Carefully read and follow instructions on the product package.) Let air dry; rinse. Launder in hottest water safe for the fabric.


Ink - Permanent:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.
Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove.

  • To have any chance you need to treat immediately. The first step is to force water through the stain before it dries to remove excess ink. Allow to dry. Sponge the stain with dry cleaning solvent (read and follow the directions carefully, it is toxic). Allow the fabric to dry. Rub a liquid detergent into the stain. Rinse. Soak the stain in warm water to which 1 to 4 tablespoons of household ammonia have been added.  Rinse and repeat if stain is lessoning. Launder.
     

  • Some inks on white fabric may be removed with a dye stripper. Follow package instructions. For stains on colored fabrics, check for dye fastness in a hidden area before using. Also, be aware that these products will affect all colors on the fabric.


Lipstick:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Place the stain face down on folded paper towels. Sponge area with dry-cleaning solvent. Replace towels frequently; let dry; rinse.
     

  • Rub with a heavy-duty liquid detergent and launder.
     

  • Repeat treatment if needed using an all-fabric bleach, because it is less damaging to colors and fabric.


Make-Up, water based:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Launder with detergent in hottest water safe for the fabric. Do not use soap (bar, flake, or detergents containing natural soap), since soap could make stain permanent or at least more difficult to remove.
     

  • Soak tough stains for 30 minutes in 1 quart of warm water and 1 teaspoon of enzyme presoak product.
     

  • To remove old or set stains may require washing with bleach that is safe for the fabric. Always check for colorfastness first.


Mud:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Scrape off whatever you can.
     

  • Soak and agitate in water before washing to further remove material.
     

  • Soak tough stains using a detergent or enzyme presoak product for about 30 minutes. Soak old stains for at least several hours.
     

  • Launder normally, rinse, and inspect. If stain remains, soak an additional 30 minutes, then rewash.
     


Nail Polish:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • For stains from nail polish, apply nail polish remover to the back of the stain while laying the fabric on white absorbent towels. Replace towels frequently. Then rinse and launder.
     

  • Never use nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic, as they will dissolve. Take these fabrics to the dry cleaner.


Paint, oil-based:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Act fast and blot, don't rub. Rubbing forces the stain deeper into the fabric.
     

  • Try using a thinner recommended for the paint. Usually turpentine or alcohol will work as solvents. However, test an inside seam for color fastness or the potential for other damage first. Spot treat the stained areas until the paint is softened and can be flushed away by agitating in a solution of water and a heavy-duty liquid detergent.
     

  • Launder immediately.


Pencil:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.

  • Use a soft eraser to remove what excess lead you can. But, be careful so you do not amage or stretch the fabric.
     

  • Spray the stain with a pretreatment product.
     

  • Rub the area with a heavy-duty liquid detergent. Rinse and launder.
     

  • There are also commercial pencil mark removers available in some quilt supply stores.


Rust:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.
Removing rust stains can be difficult. Rust stains cannot be removed in normal laundering. Do not use chlorine bleach, chlorine bleach will make the stains permanent.

  • Small stains may be removed with a few drops of a commercial rust remover, or by repeated applications of lemon juice and salt on the stain. Do not let dry between applications.
     

  • Rinse thoroughly and launder with a liquid laundry detergent and oxygen bleach, following directions.
     

  • If safe for fabric, boil in solution of 4 teaspoons of cream of tartar per pint of water. Rinse thoroughly.
     

  • Severe rust staining may be removed with a commercial rust remover, such as RoVer or Whink. Follow package instructions. But rust removers that contain hydrofluoric acid are extremely toxic, can burn the skin, and will damage the porcelain finish on appliances and sinks.


Yellowing:

Always read and follow the care instructions and any warnings on the garment label.
Some fabrics which are white or pastel colored contain optical brighteners or fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) which were applied during manufacturing. These agents can decompose when exposed to light and atmospheric conditions, or prolonged storage conditions. In some cases the entire fabric becomes dingy or develops a yellow cast. In other cases the yellowing develops only where exposed to light. The FWAs can also be damaged by the use of chlorine bleach.

  • Unfortunately, once the FWA's are damaged, the whitening agents can't be reapplied to the fabric.
    ll fabric bleach or the use of specialty products available in grocery or drug stores, such as Rit's "Whitener and Brightener" may help. Carefully read and follow the instructions on the product label, and check for colorfastness first.

     

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